Tools:
Hand trowel, tape measure, rototiller, spading fork, soil rake, garden hose, lawn edger, stiff push broom, lawn roller, lawn sprinkler.
Materials:
Soil test kit, organic matter, sod, grass fertilizer (lawnifi)
Step 1:Test the Soil
The best way to provide the perfect growing environment for grass is to test your soil. Most turf grasses thrive in well-aerated soil with a pH slightly toward the acidic side (between 6 and 7.5). Obtain a soil test kit from your local hardware store. To take a soil test, gather soil samples from several places around the area you’ll be sodding. Mix the soil according to your test. Based off of the result you will identify if the soil needs more base or acid or if it is just right for the type of grass you would like to install. Adjust accordingly for best results.
Step 2: Measure the Size of the Space you will be Sodding
Measure the area you’ll be sodding. Take careful measurements so that you don’t pay for more sod than you need. Order roughly 5 percent extra (over the measured area), so you’ll have enough sod to cut and fit around curves, and to be used as fill in certain areas. Purchase sod through Sod Solutions.com or a sod farm near you. If you use Sod Solutions.com you can use our area calculator to determine just the right amount of Sod you need. Even with this calculater it would still be prudent to order the addition 5% for fill and corners.
Step 3: Remove Existing Lawn and Loosen Top Soil.
If you have an existing lawn it is imperative that you remove the lawn in its entirety. Any weed killer such as Round-Up will work. Upon completion of this process we recommend you use a rototiller to loosen soil to a depth of 6 to 8 inches or to the best of your ability Remove any debris you unearth, including rocks, and buried sticks. Add and till in 2 to 3 inches of organic matter if possible, this includes good top soil and or manure. Organic matter helps improve soil aeration and water retention and enhances the microbial population in your soil. The bottom line is that organic matter makes your soil healthier. Till in fertilizer or lime based on the results of your soil test.
Step 4: Grade Soil Level
Rake soil level, and ensure that it’s one inch below the grade of sprinkler heads or paved areas, like sidewalks, patios or driveways. Raking evens out the surface and also creates loose soil particles, which are ideal for grass roots to sink into. Soil needs to be moist when you lay sod. It is a good idea to water heavily 24 or even 48 hours before the installation of the sod.
Step 5: Lay the Sod
This is the fun part.Start laying turf along a straight edge, such as a patio, a fence, flower bed or even a driveway. Work with whole pieces, laying them one at a time, end to end and ensuring that the lines are as tight as possible. Avoid walking on the sod as you lay it if possible. Work to smooth out any wrinkles in the sod. Pat sod carefully into place, so there aren’t any air pockets between soil and sod. The more grass roots that come into contact with the pre-treated soil the better.
Step 6: Lay Sod in Rows
Once you have all your straight edges finished start filling in the rest of your yard in a similar pattern.
Step 7: Create Tight Seams
Align edges of sod together tightly but without creating overlap. Push your thumbs along the edges to fit them snugly against each another and to make sure there aren’t any air pockets or bare soil showing along the seam, again maximum root to soil contact is what you are looking to achieve.
Step 8: Place Small Pieces in Middle
As you come up with small pieces of sod, tuck them into the center of the lawn area, so that all edges are touching other sod pieces. If you use small pieces to fill in along the edges of a lawn, they’re more prone to drying out and more likely to shrink and even die, leaving the edges bare and showing soil.
Step 9: Cut Curves around the Gardens
To get curving sections just right, lay out the curve with a hose, and use a lawn edger to slice neatly along the curve, a machete also works well. Grab your carpet knife to slice openings in sod around irrigation heads, trees or other obstacles.
Step 10:Fill in Seams
Brush or sprinkle commercial topsoil or potting soil across all seams using a strong push broom. Take care not to push up loose turf edges.
Step 11: Roll Sod
Use a lawn roller to push sod firmly against soil beneath. A tight connection between sod and soil is the secret to roots knitting quickly into soil. Limit traffic on the sod for the first three weeks while it’s establishing. This includes children and pets. If you can't get your hands on a lawn roller, and large heavy round object will do the trick. The more surface area the better.
Step 12: Water the Sod
Water your newly installed sod thoroughly, and continue to water daily unless rain arrives. Water shouldn’t puddle on your new sod. If it does, reduce the time you’re watering. After the first week, reduce watering to every other day. Tapering off on watering encourages grass roots to sink deeper into soil. A deeply-rooted lawn is one of the secrets to growing a lush, healthy, thick stand of grass.
Step 13: Mowing Grass
Time your first mowing when grass is roughly three inches tall and at least 14 days have passed since you laid the sod. Use a walk-behind mower instead of a heavier riding mower, and install a grass catcher to bag the clippings. At this point, the lawn is too immature to let clippings lie and could choke out certain areas of your lawn. Add your clippings to the compost pile, or use them as mulch around shrubs or vegetables. Make sure the mower blade is sharp, or you’ll risk tearing up newly-rooted grass. If you begin to mow and find that some of the squares or corners are coming up. Stop mowing immediately and wait another week.
Step 14: Fertilizing Grass
Apply Lawnifi Grow fertilizer to grass after about four weeks’ growth. Continue to avoid heavy activity on your new lawn for the first four weeks following installation.
Step 15: Enjoy your Lawn
You have worked hard on your new green lawn. Get outside enjoy the sunshine and your lawn.
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